Coco Chanel / "Chanel"

Home

Chanel

One of the well-known aphorisms "mademoiselle Koko" says: «All in our hands - therefore cannot be lowered them». All history of a life Chanel and it of "fashionable business» as well as possible confirms these words. But very few people knows, that in fragile female hands not always there was all.

Gabriel Chanel was born on August, 19th, 1883 in hospital for beggars of small French small town Somjur-en-Luar. Her parents - poor proletarians - did not consist in official marriage. The father earned small commerce, mother served in another's houses and at the age of 33 years has died of a tuberculosis.

buy blog reviews

After this tragedy the 13-year-old girl together with sister have given to a monastic shelter for orphans Korrez where it has spent five years. Small Koko (then still Gabriel) earned on bread, working as the seamstress.

Leaving board, Gabriel has arrived the seller in knitted shop in small town Mulen. There she has started to comprehend elements of art of sales, that very much it was useful to it subsequently at creation of own business - it was the talented businessman that has in many respects helped it to become so well-known though this aspect of activity Chanel is little-known.

But job Chanel was not limited to a post of the seller of jersey. In the evenings it still earned additionally the soloist and the dancer in a cabaret for bohemia "Rotunda"! Thanks to execution of popular French songs, on which visitors, echoing and applodiruja, reacted shouts: «To-to!», also there was a world famous pseudonym - teenage nickname Koko is no time. Scenic atmosphere was to the little girl to liking, and in addition in a variety show she has learnt to make quickly of the decision and not to be lost in difficult situations.

The ex-Perimentatorsky spirit has allowed to put into practice Chanel many ideas for which it has received a title of "the empress of a fashion». Touching accessories of man's clothes, creative thought ingenious Koko has enriched a female fashion. Shirts of man's breed, trousers for riding, ties and jackets have strongly entered into clothes of the modern woman. It has relieved female toilets of traditional excesses, bulky embroideries and corsets. For a moment having taken of a view a figure of the soldier bearing a bag through a shoulder, Koko "has immediately awarded" with such subject a fragile ladies' coat hanger.

Ladies have appeared in full delight from a new fashionable wave. Opening and innovations Koko Chanel is almost all modern lady's wear: trousers, kardigany, bathing suits, and also costume jewellery and many other things. It of the first has introduced jersey in a female fashion. Once having seen remained with one of manufacturers a beige material under the name "jersey", it has made at once the big order for this fabric. Then on eyes the rests from tailoring of party of sports man's suits have got to it, and today the jersey became even more actual in a female fashion. One more opening Chanel - she of the first has started to think out costume jewellery under new models of clothes, having made accessories effective addition of all suit.

The idea to combine in one product pastes and natural stones belonged not to it, but it of the first has realised it. And in 1947 Koko has put on the market quilted leather handbags on a gold chain which are considered till now as classics, and women of fashion of all world are ready to give the large sum for one of such handbags …

Many times courageous and desperate Koko Chanel was necessary to be the first. But stage-by-stage development of its breath-taking career began with something. Start of own business has not done without the help of two first bojfrendov - officer-cavalryman Etena Balzana and its friend, English aristocrat Arthur Kapelja, after acquaintance with which in the spring of 1908 Koko has grasped passion therefore it has moved to Paris.

All began as a banal love triangle: Balzan has generously given the Parisian apartments under a workshop, and the Thaw supplied the mistress with money. Later Chanel idolised Arthur as unique present love of all life. But happens irreparable - it has broken in accident then modelersha with a head has plunged into creative projects and rough novels.

Occurrence of two friends in a life Chanel has foretokened the beginning of its long way to business. In 1909 in the Parisian parkway Malzerb the small hat salon has opened is there was a first commercial project Chanel which to it managed to be carried out on money Kapelja. Original products have quickly won popularity, and a year later Koko has expanded the business, having been engaged in trade in clothes.

To some extent having dug Chanel to business tops it became possible thanks to general to misfortune - the First World War. While the front came nearer to Paris, and various directions of business were promptly turned off, Chanel 33rd year went whom then, earned more and more and, that is even more important, got popularity.

Rich capital ladies were rescued from burdens of war just on resorts. And simple and elegant styles which to them here has offered Koko, have as well as possible approached for the severe time which has forced women of fashion to forget about magnificent skirts and hats with ostrich's feathers. In small town Dovil in the street Gonto-Bigon for the first time there was a signboard «Fashions Chanel», decorated nowadays a world renowned logo - the crossed letters "With".

In days of war one of the main qualities Chanel was very brightly showed, allowed it to win the «a place under the sun» in business, - enormous working capacity. She worked hard drinking, for 12-14 hours a day, at times slighting colleagues and subordinates of the beskompromissnostju, not hesitating to perform draught job. This woman was a live embodiment of a surprising combination of bogemno-aristocratic lines and a rigid business grasp.

«I had age and temperament of a new century, and he has addressed to me that I have expressed it through clothes», - recollected Chanel in the end of a life. Already by the end of 1915 she has created studio in Biarritz, with staff more than 300 persons. This resort located near to the Spanish border, has been chosen not casually. In not at war Spain there were many well-founded customers. To Chanel inhabitants of resorts of Bilbao, San Sebastian and even persons of the Spanish royal court yard have become constant visitor.

Having caught, that post-war Europe which has healed wound will demand again the luxury, new ideas in a fashion and design, Koko has decided to diversify the business. Working out of fashionable styles, clothes sale through a network of boutiques and special studio remained, but the new direction - perfumery has in parallel arisen.

In 1920 Chanel has met in Biarritz one of the most known Russian emigrants - grand duke Dmitry Pavlovichem Romanov, thereby which participated in plot against Rasputina. On one of receptions the grand duke has presented Chanel to the former perfumer of the Russian imperial court yard - to Ernest Bo. Some historians of a fashion believe, what exactly this acquaintance has suggested an idea Chanel to create spirits under the name. In those days spirits usually repeated a smell of any flower, and the compositions based on natural flower essences, quickly evaporated after bottle opening. Other decision was necessary qualitatively - it was thanks to tremendous intuition Koko.

Legendary «Chanel ¹ 5» have appeared as a result of Ernest Bo's error to which Koko has charged to make it is a little exemplary new perfume. It has mixed a dosage of one of essences, but Chanel has not given it possibility to correct an oversight, having insisted on release of spirits with unusual aroma. Their bouquet was based on 80 (!) various components that gave to a smell simultaneously stability and abstraktnost. "Five" Chanel considered figure happy, as has defined a bottle choice at this number from all samples prepared Bo.

The presentation of spirits «Chanel ¹ 5» has taken place in Paris, in 1921, during fashion show. «The happy figure» has justified itself: having spent real mizer (some hundreds or - taking into account packing - some thousand dollars), Koko have received enormous return. The profit on sale of new aroma was estimated hundreds thousand. It was the present break in the perfumery world, and to this day «Chanel ¹ 5» - the most sold and popular spirits in the world. The bottle for the well-known spirits is not casually executed in man's style - boxes of precisely such form Koko time and again saw on toilet shelves of the lovers … On questions of familiar ladies «Where to put spirits?» She responded: «And where you want, that you kissed?»

The period of blossoming of the House of a fashion Chanel - 20-30th years. The business adjusted by an iron hand of the mistress, brought in the stable income. On rough estimates, modelling business gave $200-300 thousand a year. As to perfumery business in the mid-twenties Chanel has sold the manufacture and sale right «Chanel ¹ 5» to brothers-millionaires Vertajmer for what subsequently often regretted. To return the well-known brand to it that was possible only in 1947, and not completely. Pierre Vertajmer has agreed to pay Chanel royalties from each sold copy - about $1 million a year.

Gabriel Chanel did not test lacks not only of money, but also of admirers. Among them there were such outstanding persons, as Toulouse-Lotrek, Pablo Picasso, Sergey Dyagilev, Jean Cocteau, Jean Mare, Igor Stravinsky, El Salvador Distances, Charli Chaplin, John Kennedy. On the other hand, its private life and has not developed. In many years after Arthur Kapelja's death directly on eyes Koko its groom - the known artist and set dresser Pol Irib has died from blow. Westminster it has refused the offer of a hand and heart of the duke: «On light of full any duchesses, but only one Koko Chanel».

Apparently, Koko always took liking to people of art. There is an opinion, that Chanel would not take place without a man's environment, on what at "mademoiselle" the coquettish answer was always ready: «People take a great interest not in a fashion, and those the few who creates it». Men liked it, but also she was not in debt, putting up the earned money in patronage of arts. It made out Sergey Dyagilev's ballet statements, financed manufacturing of suits and scenery for well-known film "antigona" of Jean Cocteau, helped friends-artists much.

Not always, the truth, contacts Chanel with the art world came to an end successfully. Shortly before the beginning of the Second World War it has accepted the offer of movie company MGM and personally main producer «factories of stars» Semjuelja Goldvina to become the unique and permanent costumier of Hollywood. Scales of this contract in figures - $1 million which Goldvin was ready to pay. But, having taken part in shooting of all one film, Chanel has refused to work further, than has rather pleased the American film stars - those worried, that "Chanel" and only "Chanel" to which elegant classics, by the way, it is necessary to grow still will force to carry them.

So, the project «Chanel in Hollywood» has failed. But it is not out of place to notice, what is it a failure single instance in biography Koko. Having laid down for herself the aim, she, as a rule, achieved it. This purely man's character trait drew to it many mighty of this world. In particular, one of its hot admirers - sir Winston Churchill - has in diaries a remarkable record: «Has arrived well-known Koko, and I admired with it. It is one of the cleverest and charming, the strongest woman with whom I ever had to deal».

The Second World War, appear, has given up as a bad job business Chanel. In 1939 as soon as fights have begun, it has closed the House of a fashion (job the Parisian shop continued only) and has left to neutral Switzerland. After clearing of France it is circumstance it has appeared not in favour of Koko. And not only it. The public opinion could not excuse Koko intimacy with German a background a baron and contacts to the head of department of external investigation of nazi Germany Walter Schellenberg. In 1943 Chanel petitioned through it for the beginning of peace talks between allies and Germans.

Charge in a collaboration - very serious minus in business when around all stay in patriotic excitation. In 1945 well-known «the empress of a fashion» was threatened with arrest. Has rescued it only personal intervention of the friend to the duke Westminster - Winston Churchill. However it has been compelled to spend first eight post-war years in Switzerland.

But Chanel would not be by itself if has not tried to rise. She has again got over to Paris and unknown to all has started to prepare a new collection.

In February, 1954 for Chanel critical time has come. To win or die - under such slogan it went on fashionable salon opening in Paris. Chances of success were minimum if to consider, that for 15 years while Chanel was «behind side scenes», on a scene of theatre of a fashion there were new fashion designers with new ideas - Christian Dior, ZHivanshi, etc.

As a result the first reaction of public to Chanel - a deafening failure. Under the certificate of eyewitnesses, models passed on a podium at full silence of a hall. The press has fallen upon Chanel with pejorative criticism. To the middle 50 in a fashion of Europe avant-garde currents already got the best, has started to sprout new style unisex. And here Chanel with models, «giving naphthalene». One of leading Parisian newspapers was not ashamed to name its collection «Phantoms of 30th years».

Year that to Chanel the former power has returned was necessary. «The fashion passes, style remains», - again she witty expressed. Clients, at least, the most well-founded and their "star" part, have followed at all neophytes, and for Koko. Sales grew on tens percent a year, new branches opened. "Mademoiselle" as, despite 70-year-old age, continued to name for eyes the proprietress of the well-known brand, has focused the business on the necessary group of consumers - people with a prosperity above an average, possessing taste and preferring reasonable severity. Most of all among them was Americans.

Chanel has quickly understood, that the capital of fashionable business has moved for ocean, and has outstripped competitors in struggle for favourable clientele. «The clothes have a logic, it is necessary to respect her. Extravagance„ these mse “goes against logic, and force of Americans that they do not allow to fool themselves», - spoke it. "Suit-shanel" worries the Renaissance.

The rate on "stars" has justified this time itself. The number of its buyers included the first rich men of Old and New light, for example, baroness Rothschild. Dresses «from Chanel» preferred to all to the rests singer Edit Piaf and a film actress Romi Schneider. Second half 50 and all 60th years business Koko Chanel are forward developed. It not only has returned the lost positions - she has won the competitive struggle which has become tougher to a limit.

Years never hindered for it neither business, nor in personal relations. «At my age it is already ridiculous to ask the passport the one who has wanted to oversleep with me», - 60-year-old seductress Chanel lovely joked. And about itself spoke: «Each woman has that age what deserves».

Has died Gabriel Chanel on January, 10th, 1971 at the age of 88 years in Parisian hotel "Ðèö". By then actives of the House of a fashion Chanel made $160 million However in clothes of the first business lady of 20 centuries has been found only three suits, the truth, extremely elegant.