Yohji Yamamoto / "Yohji Yamamoto"

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Yohji Yamamoto

Focus of the great Japanese that its any thing cannot be bought without seriously not to be ill: it not the clothes, are clever and graceful dictatorship over all your existence. Seriously naming itself «the tailor, but in any way the couturier», the king of asymmetry, the adherent of black colour, and simply great fashion designer Jodzhi Jamamoto, has opened the Universe of a name of, and to close it is not going to at all.

Jodzhi JAmamoto was born on October, 3rd, 1943 in Tokyo, in a family of the dressmaker and the soldier; the father has died on war when Jodzhi and two years were not, and since then his mother carried only the black. The mourning mood, a dense cloud shrouding JAmamoto since early years, has evidently affected its creativity - till now its collections are half black, as night, and half hurt the eyes is dazzling the white. Mother had to raise alone the child and to earn for a life. Courage and hardness were for this purpose necessary. The first lessons of tailor's skill Jodzhi too has received from mum.

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Having ended in 1969 school of fashionable affairs «Bunka Gakun», Jodzhi opens in 1972 own trade mark. In 1974 shows the collection pret-and-port on the Tokyo podium. And in 1981 ambassador of the first defile in Paris fashionable and okolomodnye critics call it «the idiot, line not understanding a fashion which sews the things which are calling in memory mushrooms of nuclear explosions and not having anything general with a fashion for normal people». Europe was ready to meet a fashion deconstruction. But did not wait for it from Japan.

To reproach the Japanese with «nuclear hints» as easy as shelling pears - but after all all of us our fault if it was not a lung comes from the childhood, and not. Thin east business demands the corresponding relation, and to apply to clothes JAmamoto the European measures it would be at least stupid.

1982 JAmamoto the first award waits - 26-th Fashion Editors Club Award (Tokyo) Already to 1984 critics have estimated a fragmentary cut, deliberate laconicism and full of grace bezrazmernost collections Jodzhi and have sung to it osannu, having proclaimed «the first-ever philosopher of a fashion».

Products JAmamoto combine amazing qualities: they are sustained in uniform style and at the same time are very individual. In traditional Japanese culture each person carried the dress, relying to it on a rank. Today individuality - concept more difficult: the clothes should be in harmony with the person of the person. And Jodzhi JAmamoto constantly aspires to it: «People in photos in old picture albums are dressed in a reality. They do not dress up in clothes, they live in it. I also wish to create such clothes. If you live in the cold country the warm coat is your friend, your family. People carry my things as carried during those far times, and I can be happy.

Earlier on the person and on clothes at once it was possible to tell, who this person. And unless it is not healthy, when you, seeing a coat which rolls on a floor or hangs on a wall, can tell: «Aha, here it is John, and it - Tommi». Because clothes are you. Presently there are many rich people who think that can buy all. For them consumption sphere is even their own life. They do not understand essence of subjects - stones, trees, things … They think, that can receive all for money. It is very sad. For this reason I address for inspiration by old times when people of much did not presume and lived in an environment of very simple things «. 1996 - the designer makes the first successful experiment in the field of perfumery - spirits Yohji.

In 2002 the world famous Japanese designer becomes the creative director of new branch of the company adidas - adidas Sport Style (earlier adidas Equipment).

JAmamoto has already developed for adidas new design krossovok. «I wished to work for a long time against ugly technological krossovka, - speaks 59-year-old JAmamoto. - the Youth of all world carries this footwear, and I cannot ignore it».

Style JAmamoto was and remains unique, but it has not prevented the western fashion to profit by its ideas much. Innovative ideas Jodzhi JAmamoto and its compatriots of Yards Kavakubo have become history of a fashion as «velvet revolution»: they before Belgians have applied a principle dekonstruktivizma in clothes, have made fashionable black colour, free breed, asymmetry, attritions, external seams. Today JAmamoto continues to experiment silhouettes, proportions, forms though in due course its collections became easier, more cheerful: it had suits on a figure, colour accents, but their essence remains invariable. Not so long ago the designer has prepared the next surprise for the admirers, having arranged unforgettable show in the Parisian area Pigal on a scene of one of the most scandalous cabarets «Mulen Ruzh». The podium took places on a scene and on the sizes resembled a tennis court more. However models stepped on the stage to win a rank of the first racket of a podium at all.

In majestic crinolines, cascades of laces and clouds of gas they "came up" on a scene and … arranged "striptease". Gloves and hats acted in film, crinolines got rid, dresses were unbuttoned and carelessly fell on a floor, and on models there were strict direct skirts and asymmetric bjuste. Then focus repeated upside-down. On the podium middle there was a model in underwear and from petticoat pockets took missing elements of clothes - everything, up to accessories and a wedding bouquet. If someone from beginning designers has afforded something similar, it, most likely, would regard as cheap stunting and an impudent trick. And in context JAmamoto, thirty years working in modelling business, it is considered as thin irony or the ciphered message: the tinsel flies away, the classics remains.

Things from JAmamoto demand a certain concentration, sincere movement from the person who has put on them - differently they "not will revive" on him. «Sometimes my clothes it is difficult to carry that it as though is a little left unfinished. To finish an image, the person needs to show own imagination. It to much obliges, but at the same time liberates». When there is a merge of the person and a thing there is a sensation as if you get the friend who knows about you all.

The standard cliche was fixed to it - the minimalist. And how still to name the person who does not pay attention to colour, cuts on a straight line, and instead of smartly processed mouth prefers to cut an aperture simply? However itself JAmamoto as the minimalist of does not consider: «the Minimalism is a pretentious meanness. And I like all sincere, hot, passionate - that goes from the depth of soul». Other proof error connected with this designer, consists that he ostensibly tries to create the Japanese colour in the clothes. But JAmamoto considers itself as a cosmopolitan. «I at all do not feel myself as the Japanese. To me to spit on all these distinctions between Asia and Europe, the East and the West. I accept habits of that country in which I live, and me surprises, that others recollect my nationality».

On the tastes and predilections Jodzhi, certainly, the European. He adores fast driving on the car and game in billiards, is a good judge of good spirits and with pleasure goes in for sports (a black belt on carat). He not bad plays a bass guitar and a lip accordion. Its liked singer Bean Dilan, liked friends - four-footed pupils (three dogs) who live in the house of the designer. Jodzhi admits, that it is very lazy. Says, that if has not taken a great interest in a fashion became simply the idler or … the gangster. When modelling business will bother it, JAmamoto is going to to become the actor: «the Role of the third plan in the insurgent, on bolshee I do not apply».

But while idler Jamamoto does on neskolku collections in a year. It does not leave the studio, watches closely cutting and tailoring of each model, enters into the smallest details (say, that without its personal approval any seam does not become). The empire Jamamoto promptly grows, its annual turnover - 65 million pounds. Besides female collections it lets out a line man's pret-and-port. In the perfumery market aromas from JAmamoto use huge demand. In all world capitals there are its boutiques. When two years ago Donna Keran, handing over JAmamoto the well-known award «Night of Stars», has told: «I am a designer, and he is an artist», JAmamoto has responded: «It is a huge compliment, and still I only the designer. However, unless the artist and the designer is not same, unless a fashion - not art?» JAmamoto works not for the sake of glory, not for the sake of money. He admits, that rich to be boring. Jodzhi is engaged in a fashion for the sake of the fashion and speaks, what is it his soul part.