Yves Saint Laurent / "Yves Saint Laurent"

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Full name of this person - Willows Anri Donat Mate Sen-Loran. Was born in colonial Algeria, in a well-founded French family. The father of the future couturier dreamt of career of the lawyer for the son as at school of Willows studied well. But younger Sen-Lorana such prospect did not please, and it has found to itself(himself) the ally in the name of mother. He doubted, what of trades will approach it more - the theatrical artist or the fashion designer. When the young man studied in the senior classes, his mother, beauty Ljusenn, has brought for the first time the son to Paris. Having used the communications, it has organised to the son a meeting with Michel de Brjunoff, the editor-in-chief Parisian Vogue. After acquaintance to sketches Sen-Lorana Brjunoff has understood, that the young man definitely possesses gift of the fashion designer which requires the further development.

Full name of this person - Willows Anri Donat Mate Sen-Loran. Was born in colonial Algeria, in a well-founded French family. The father of the future couturier dreamt of career of the lawyer for the son as at school of Willows studied well. But younger Sen-Lorana such prospect did not please, and it has found to itself(himself) the ally in the name of mother. He doubted, what of trades will approach it more - the theatrical artist or the fashion designer. When the young man studied in the senior classes, his mother, beauty Ljusenn, has brought for the first time the son to Paris. Having used the communications, it has organised to the son a meeting with Michel de Brjunoff, the editor-in-chief Parisian Vogue. After acquaintance to sketches Sen-Lorana Brjunoff has understood, that the young man definitely possesses gift of the fashion designer which requires the further development.

Having left school (in 1954 year, to it then there were 18 years), Willows has arrived to Paris, has entered school of a fashion and in the autumn of the same year participated in competition of young fashion designers. As a result he has won the main prize for the sketch of a dress for a cocktail with unusual asymmetric cut. By the way, young German fashion designer Charles Lagerfeld participating in the same competition took a prize for the coat cut out by it.

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Michel de Brjunoff continued to participate in destiny of the protege - regularly looked its sketches, gave advice, acquainted with the necessary people. Once Willows has brought a series of fresh sketches, and de Brjunoff extraordinary was surprised, having seen amazing similarity to sketches for a collection of its friend Christian Diora though Dior still never showed to its general public. De Brjunoff has called the great couturier and has convinced him to meet with Sen-Loranom. The invitation to job in house Diora became a result of this considerable meeting for the 18-year-old fashion designer. Job Willow Sen-Lorana appreciated, and very soon it became the right hand of the master. Soon that declared its successor. In September, 1957 Dior was going to in holiday, having left a fashion house on care Sen-Lorana. At Diora there was a heart attack in which result his life has broken, and from rest it has not returned any more.

Sen-Loran has slightly altered traditional diorovsky style and in January, 1958 has presented on court of public the first independent collection. He has offered new dresses-trapezes of a free silhouette. Newspapers there and then declared that the 21-year-old fashion designer has rescued the French fashion. The success of a new collection has led to instant growth of a sales volume of house Diora on 35 %.

However to be condensed over the young couturier there were soon clouds. The owner of house Diora, the textile magnate Marseilles Bussak doubted the creative direction, chosen Willows Sen-Loranom. Many conservatives experiments guarded «the small prince» on crossing of elevated style with more democratic street fashion. The delight of public has ceased: she has met following five collections much more easy.

In 1960 Sen-Lorana have taken away on military service. There were hearings, that conscription to it has arranged Bussak. But Sen-Loran has spent there only two weeks: the shock from sudden change of conditions became the reason of the strongest nervous breakdown. Two and a half a month of a life of the fashion designer in Parisian psihbolnitse became a result. This time has not passed completely and for his career. Having returned to house Diora, Sen-Loran has found out, that the management has found to it replacement in the name of the next young genius - Mark Boana. A willow have offered new, more modest post: he should watch performance of conditions of the licences which have been given out by the company in England. Sen-Loran has been offended by such changes in its absence. It has submitted the claim against house Diora, having seized $24 thousand This money became the base on which he has decided to base own fashion house together with friend Pierre Berzhe. Berzhe has secured also with support of American millionaire Meka Robinsona which has allocated money for promotion of the new enterprise.

Official opening of own house of a fashion Willow Sen-Lorana happens in December, 1961. Then the couturier has told: «I have passed from the world of fabrics and proportions in the world of silhouettes and lines». So the democratic fashion began pret-and-port.

The first collection with logo YSL Paris looked forward, having concealed breath. Many predicted a failure, but gloomy forecasts were not justified - display has come to the end ovatsiej, all remained are happy.

Since then career Willow Sen-Lorana has again gone upwards. Almost every year he offered new ideas which as a result to unrecognizability have changed a modern fashion. Among its innovations - the jacket-raincoat which has appeared in 1962, raincoats from vinyl - in 1965, and in 1966 - female brjuchnye suits, jackets-pea jackets, striped dresses-vests and the well-known ladies' tuxedos. It was the present revolution in female clothes. Next year in its collection there were suits in style "safari" with unprofitable pockets, overalls and - alternatively - transparent dresses.

With 1966 Sen-Loran began to let out every year besides two collections of exclusive clothes haute couture two more collections pret-a-porter Rive Gauche. It the first has foretold, that in due course the ready-to-wear clothes market becomes leading sector of the industry of a fashion. Success Sen-Lorana is better explain words Koko Chanel whom, as well as Christian Dior, has proclaimed its successor: «All think of fugacity of a fashion, and Willows Sen-Loran thinks of modern clothes for the woman of second half of 20 centuries». This practicality also has resulted Sen-Lorana in financial success which, however, has appeared short.

Thanks to Pierre Berzhe's enterprise talents the house of fashion Yves Saint Laurent in 70th years has turned to empire with mullions-strong incomes. The profit brought not only clothes, but also the accompanying goods - spirits, jeweller ornaments, bags. As to spirits Opium became one of perfumery best sellers of all times and the people, having glorified both stamp YSL, and its ideological inspirer. But crisis has begun with the end of 80th years in YSL. To correct affairs, Pierre Berzhe began to sell actively to foreign manufacturers of the licence for use of brand YSL. Illegibility in business ties has led to that the well-known stamp crushed, its image in the opinion of buyers was washed away, having lost the exclusiveness. At Sen-Lorana and Berzhe there was one more trump - support of French president Mitterand. Under its pressure in 1993 the state company Elf-Sanofi has got a considerable share holding of company Yves Saint Laurent and began to put up in it money. But power change in the Elisejsky palace has deprived the company of this easy money.

Then some years successively YSL worked at a loss, and company losses continued to grow: about $700 thousand in 1999 to $70 million in 2001. The true scale of problems YSL became obvious only after in 1999 the French billionaire Francois Pino has bought a controlling interest for $1 billion $70 million More has been paid Berzhe and Sen-Loranu for the right to use brand YSL in a line pret-a-porter. Collections haute couture (two in a year) remained an ancestral lands of the maestro.

On restoration of dying fashion house Pino has thrown the shock forces - Italian businessman Domeniko de Sole and the American designer of Volume Ford. In total several years ago this pair has become famous for that has managed not only to revive from ashes other legendary company - Gucci, but also to grow up from it the worthy competitor to holding LVMH belonging to sworn enemy Pino - to Bernard Arno.

Speaking about new ideologists of brand YSL, it is necessary to notice, that Volume Ford - vigorous on the nature, efficient, even the aggressive person. In many respects it is full contrast nervous, emotional, suffering from frequent depressions Willow Sen-Lorana. This neshozhestju much speaks, including that it became difficult to get on in one fashion house. Between Ford and Sen-Loranom the contract on non-interference to affairs each other has been concluded, but the union equal in rights all the same it has not turned out.

In January, 2001 of Willows Sen-Loran and Pierre Berzhe it is underlined in a pointed manner have ignored display of the first collection of the ready-to-wear clothes created by Volume by Ford for YSL. Thus next day both, indifferently, have appeared on debut display Hedi Slimana from competing house Christian Dior. Its occurrence does not remain not noticed because before the fashion designer about ten years ignored another's shows. On the same display TV men managed to remove sensational shots - conversation Willow Sen-Lorana with Bernard Arno during which time of the couturier complained of a life and said, that feels deceived. And here after a year of the maestro declares that has decided to leave «fashionable business» definitively. Though this news waited, it all the same became sensation. « Today I have made the decision to be excused with world of a fashion which so liked … »- has informed on January, 7th, 2002 65-year-old Willows Sen-Loran, one of the celebrated personalities in the trade. As the valid reason for that insuperable disagreements with the owner of firm Yves Saint Laurent - Francois Pino served. Sen-Loran has read in advance prepared speech and has left, having left to speak before Pierre Berzhe's journalists. That has hastened to assure the press, that leaving of its friend is not connected with any pressure from Francois Pino.

Brand YSL will continue the existence, however collections haute couture with such name any more will not be - for it Sen-Loran has thanked Pino, allowed it is beautiful to master to finish career. Francois Pino already declared, that will try to save as much as possible workplaces, but guarantees has given to nobody. The destiny of 158 employees working with Sen-Loranom, remains not clear, as well as the further life of the fashion designer.