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Christian Dior / "Dior"
 «I would be ungrateful if has not written a word„ GOOD LUCK “so, the big letters, in the beginning of that mad adventure which became my career». Christian Dior «I would be ungrateful if has not written a word„ GOOD LUCK “so, the big letters, in the beginning of that mad adventure which became my career». Christian Dior

On January, 21st, 2005 100 years from the date of a birth of the most known revolutionary of a fashion were executed exactly. Christian Diora's symbolising luxury and a glamour the name, 184 boutiques of the fashionable clothes located worldwide carry. About one today his name continues to excite minds and hearts of women of fashion of all world.

Small Christian was born on January, 21st, 1905 to year in Normandy, France. It was the second child from five in Madeleine's family and Morisa Dior. Its childhood was happy and carefree. Its father supervised over factory on manufacture of fertilizers of that its mammy rather was ashamed. However, it did not prevent to enjoy to it all delights of the provided life. She devoted the free time to job in a liked garden and the organisation of small receptions for close friends.

In 1911 in Christian's life has occurred at once two important events: its sixth birthday has come, and his family has moved to Paris. The capital life was not pleasant to family, behind an exception, unless, mammies. Before it new horizons - unfamiliar influential persons, a secular society and the fashionable receptions in which device she was engaged immediately spread. Christian tried to help it as could. Mother was not so happy with such succession of events - after all boys, in its opinion, should study and do excellent career, if not military, so the diplomatic. As to spite, Christian did not interest neither study, nor service.

Idle pleasures and quiet rest-hours for its art imaginations - that's all, that was necessary for it. Unfortunately, Parisian life Diorov has been interrupted by war, and in 1914 they have returned to the house in Granville. In the silence of a garden periodically interrupted with a loud voice of the father, setting children on the right path, Christian spent time with mother, trying to win its arrangement. Despite the early age, he understood, that his mother is completely absorbed by love to the person.

But was mistaken, thinking, that its love he can deserve. He, the baggy and timid boy, it idolised her. The reckless love to mother has forced the boy to refuse the dream later. Art was this dream - admired Christian visited all exhibitions and galleries of Paris, and was a sign with many artists. Picassos and Cocteau were its idols, but … his mother had other plans.

Naturally, he did not speak about the predilections native - in family Dior artists and poets were considered inutile, empty ljudishkami which do not need to be submitted hands. Whether it is necessary to be surprised, what in academy of arts the firm hand of mother has put a veto for Christian's receipt?

After insistent requests of mother Christian has arrived â1920 to year in Free school of political sciences. The teenager with stronger will for certain would be overcome, after all on a map there was its future. But Christian, differing unusually appeasable character, has decided to obey, and to try to become the diplomat. Between employment he nevertheless has continued to visit galleries and to expand a circle of the bohemian friends.

1927 has brought to Christian good news. On the fourth year of the study it has received a rank of the sapper of the second class in engineering armies. His mother at last has understood, that ambassador Christian never to become, and study involves it ever less. And only therefore she has agreed to finance its project - together with friend Jacque Bonzhanom, Christian has decided to base own art gallery. The artful woman could not make it in all sincerity. The payment for the signed checks was that: name Dior should not be connected with this indecent business. Never, while it is live, she will not allow so to dishonour a surname. And thoughtless Christian has agreed.

There has come 1930. The gallery prospered, opening Paris all new and new names of young artists, Christian's business went rather well, there was no yet a trouble - his brother, always differing astable mentality, has been placed in a clinic with the terrible diagnosis.

The train of terrible events in a family life has followed - all for some months was burnt down from a cancer by mother, the company of the father was ruined, and he was ill with a tuberculosis. Money has turned to a zero - from family Dior has taken away even furniture. In some months, having returned from a trip across Soviet Union where Dior has gone with group of young architects, it has appeared before the closed door of the gone bankrupt gallery. It did not have a house, it did not have money, it did not have a liked business. And the most terrible - it could not continue to conduct a habitual way of life. After three years of semibeggarly existence, he was ill with a tuberculosis. Heavy time to Christian help to go through creativity and friends. Dior starts to sell the drawings. It carries out delightful sketches of hats and a dress which buy for the publication in "Figaro". It is interesting, that models of hats from Dior originally had much bigger success, than clothes.

In 1938 of job of Christian have been noticed by Robert Pike for whom it soon starts to work as the fashion designer. Dior becomes one of the most popular persons of high life of Paris. It could move from a small room on an attic to hotel, and even to send any money to father and sister who have moved on the south. His career in fashionable house Robbera of the Pique was interrupted with war. Military Paris to a fashion had not a kind feeling - shops and factories were closed, to sew dresses became extremely unprofitable.

In 1941 Christian Dior, not looking at a difficult situation in the fashion world, co-operates with Ljusenom Lelongom and Pierre Balmanom. At this time he creates the skirt made narrower to a bottom with a fold which there and then receives success.

In 1945 Balman has decided to open own business, and has invited Christian to become the new designer of the house of fashion Balmain. However, whether the shyness has prevailed, whether the astrological forecast this day was unsuccessful - but Christian has refused. In 1946 acquaintance Diora to the textile magnate Marseilles Bussakom has taken place. Acquaintance was preceded by a case: once, wandering across Paris, Dior has stumbled about a horseshoe laying in the street. Christian has lifted a head and has seen old girlfriend Sjuzannu who at that time worked in the house of fashion Philippe and Gaston, under the guidance of Bussaka. He has suggested the designer to become subsequently the art director of the House of a fashion «Phillip and Gaston».

Having found out in itself business qualities, Dior has wanted to create the business. At participation and assistance Bussaka in 1946 the House of fashion Diora on an avenue Montaigne has opened. The father could not estimate the beginning of a new life of the son - he has died just during fussing preparation of display of the first collection. Christian recollected the promise given to mother - that name Dior will never participate in similar sorts business - and understood, that the destiny gives it a magic sign. Now he will not feel the traitor, and can be proud of the child - Christian Dior Ltd.

For record term (one and a half month) the collection from 90 models has been prepared. A collection «Corolle Line», which journalists have there and then christened «New look» (a new silhouette), it has been shown spectators on February, 12th 1947. To the public who has got tired of uniform of military years, absolutely new, revolutionary female image with the narrow waist, the underlined bust, roundish shoulders and full hips has been presented.

The shaken spectators have seen models in dresses and suits with the tightened waists and wide skirts, in elegant hats and shoes on high heels. In the end of display public has burst in an applause, and the House "Dior" has received so much orders and such profit, how much planned to receive for half a year. Paris thirsted for beauty - Dior this beauty created. With the advent of style «New look» Paris again recognised as fashion capital. Dior was full of creative ideas. He felt, how women wish to look, and offered desired to them an image during that moment when they were ready to accept it. Since this moment activity of the House of fashion Diora more and more extends. The perfumery branch in which head becomes Serzh Eftler Luish opens. Dior creates the first aroma "Miss Dior" - it has switched on liked drawing of adored sister in design of packing.

Improbable launch, the dizzy success reached for some months!. Christian always was sensitive enough, and accepted the successes as roughly, as well as defeats. In a year of its success, 1947, with it there was a first heart attack, after which doctor have advised to it to care more about health.

The same year Diora have invited to Dallas, for delivery of the prestigious award, founded Neiman Marcus. The first class on «Queen Elizabeth» - America has met the couturier as an applause, and the indignant cries. «As it is possible to show such shouting luxury when war has just ended!?» - many critics questioned. Some marked inconvenience of dresses from Dior - the length of skirts does not allow to go by a horse, and the linen squeezes a breast so, that it is absolutely impossible to breathe. Opinions was as much, how much and people. But no contradictions have prevented Dioru to base the American representation in 1948 for which special collections were twice a year created, taking into account all wishes of Americans. He knew, that can win love, he studied in it since the childhood. Each season Christian let out a new collection, and each collection became a hit.

A year later after display all Europe and America have accepted new style.

Together with partner Dzhakvesom Rouetom, Dior began the first to apply licence agreements in modelling business. Already in 1948, it orders licensing of manufacture of the models in various regions of France and all world. Thus, logo Dior has quickly appeared in all corners of globe.

In 1952 - office in London. In 1954 Christian Dior receives the licence for linen manufacture. Houses of fashion Diora open in Mexico City, Caracas, to Australia, Chile, on Cuba.

The success accompanies Dioru not only on a podium. It has taken part in statement of 15 films, creating suits for actresses. On October, 23rd, 1957 the fashion world has been stunned - at the age of 52 years the great couturier of 20 centuries has suddenly died. Him have buried in Provence, near to the father, according to its desire.

After death Diora, the House existed under the guidance of various designers - Willow Sen-Lorana (1957-1960, it has been called on military service), Mark Bohana (1960-1989) and Dzhanfranko Ferre and Patrick Lavua. Now over the House of fashion Diora John Galjano supervises.

But, unfortunately, to save traditions of the house it was not possible. Haute couture cannot live only traditions. The way to the future to it is laid by modern lines. Probably, not all know, that diorovskomu style "nju-onions" could live only 7 years. Feeling inevitability of repetition of the silhouettes of dresses thought up by it, Dior itself without a regret has left the image created by it "woman-flower". Instead of it the master showed the style reminding a pod of a string bean on light. Karmel Snow, the editor of magazine Harpers Bazaar, has designated it as "flet-onions", that is flat shape. The new silhouette especially approached the fragile women-teenagers of type Odri Hepbern looked elegantly and elegantly.

The accepted House "Dior" after death of a cartridge absolutely still young Willows Sen Loran in the first independent collection has brought into fashion "trapeze", and its successor - Mark Boan has simplified forms to a silhouette named by Americans «a tube with vaseline». In 1989 the offer from House Dior has received Dzhanfranko Ferre. The architect by training. It has approached to business from constructive positions of elegant minimalism. Clients in models offered it did not have not enough splendour and imaginations. Gradually in diorovskih dresses it it became so boring, that owners of the stamp "Christian Dior" with each collection not doschityvalis millions dollars. To shake naphthalene and again surprise the world with stylishness the one who was capable to glance in the third millenium a crafty sight most Diora could only. And here the choice has fallen on the excentric Englishman with John Galjano's Spanish blood. As well as Christian Dior, in the childhood John adored to draw flowers. The passion to koloristike has resulted it in fashion and design college in Sent-Martine.

For a degree collection on a subject of the French postrevolutionary movement "Improbable" he has created eight abstracted dresses. Which were instantly skupleny right after display by one of smart London boutiques. It was necessary for destiny, that in this boutique has glanced Dajana Ross and has got one of zhiletochek Galjano. Since then it becomes well-known. And further, certainly, its way laid to Paris! Galjano it has appeared the ideal designer for "Diora". Galjano adores whims, magnificent and exotic embroideries. Stones, a thin lace, a fringe and every possible features from a band and ribbons. It has transferred to a century flowing dresses and the images of the last century modernised and extravagant.
 
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